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And the best news: You don’t even need your own cottage to enjoy it all. Start in Peterborough, a small city divided by rivers, canals and locks on the famous Trent-Severn Waterway, which connects Lake Ontario and Georgian Bay. Then explore the surrounding Kawarthas, where more lakes (hundreds!) await.

Here are some of the best things to do on your next road trip to the region.

See the buzzy new museum. There’s no bigger collection of canoes, kayaks and paddled watercraft anywhere else on Earth — more than 650 in safekeeping. That’s why the , opened in May 2024, earned a shout-out on The New York Times’ list of 52 Places to Go in 2025 (and National Geographic’s Best of the World list last year). And the setting couldn’t be more perfect. It’s directly on the shores of Little Lake, and steps from the multi-recreational Trans Canada Trail, as well as an urban beach in Beavermead Park, and Lock 20, a key link on the Trent-Severn.

Float your boat. Watercraft aren’t just museum artifacts; Peterborough’s a place where you can paddle your own. Option one: at (where else?) the Canadian Canoe Museum. Then use their sheltered, multi-level launch to glide onto the Otonabee River, which offers calm waters and lovely views of bridges, Del Crary Park and the downtown Clock Tower. Or just sit back and relax on a sightseeing tour with , sailing from the Peterborough Marina. Slide past the Centennial Fountain, the tallest jet fountain in Canada, shooting water 76 metres in the air. Then proceed through on Earth, the monumental symbol of the city.

Lunch al fresco. Come summer in Peterborough’s downtown Hunter Street Café District, sidewalks widen along a few blocks (narrowing the actual road to just one lane), and dining moves outside. The district encompasses more than 30 food/drink spots, but highlights include , an authentic Mexican spot. Try their specialty: the pollo con mole, with sauce slow-simmered the right way, with chiles, spices and dark chocolate. Then walk down the block to for one of the from-scratch pastries, perhaps an indulgent lemon meringue “cruffin.”

Visit the next-door neighbourhood. Established as a separate village in 1858, but a part of Peterborough since 1903, Ashburnham sits on the opposite side of the river and retains a distinct character. Everyone here calls it “East City.” The primary thoroughfare, Hunter Street East, still feels like a small-town main street, and you’ll find plenty of personality among the stores, as well as great bakeries and cafés. For example: , a vintage home furnishings and decor shop; , a distillery making gin from Red Fife wheat, a heritage grain; and , which is legendary for their sourdough. (They even have a “bread schedule” on their website, so you know what’s available each day.)

Learn about literary legends. Take the scenic River Road about 20 minutes north of Peterborough, winding along the Otonabee, to . Small, pretty and friendly, the village has been home to multiple renowned Canadian authors, including Margaret Laurence, Catharine Parr Traill and Susanna Moodie. Each summer, the celebrates this legacy — and Canadian authors more broadly — but if you miss it, the festival also hosts year-round talks and readings. Visit the small but excellent (open seasonally), which features historical exhibits on its notable locals. Nearby, you can walk past the private home where Laurence worked on some of her best-known books, including “The Diviners.”

Hit the trails. You don’t have to be a serious hiker to appreciate the hundreds of kilometres of paths in the Kawarthas. Your many options include the (within the small provincial park of the same name), on the eastern edge of Peterborough. The trail rolls through part of — drumlins are large hills created by retreating glaciers — past some of the oldest hemlock, beech and elm groves in Ontario. And in the , southwest of the city, a whole network of walking paths (13 kilometres in total) traces a cold-water creek through the Oak Ridges Moraine.

Dine at a local institution. Located in a former 19th-century bank building, has been a favourite downtown pub for decades. It’s atmospheric and comfortable, with dark woods and cosy corners. There’s even an annex space called the Bijoux Bar, inspired by Belgium’s traditional brown bars. On tap is a nice variety of Belgian Trappist ales, to go along with the really delicious food. Try the P.E.I. mussels, served with hand-cut, twice-fried Belgian frites and house-made bread.

If you stay: Situated on a scenic stretch of Stoney Lake, the family-friendly feels like summer camp, but with more amenities and way better beds. Stay in the 28-room lodge or one of 16 cottages, then fill your days with guided hikes, tubing behind a boat, canoeing and kayaking from the beach, or just relaxing by a pool.

WHERE CHEFS EAT: Chef Simon Brown’s favourites in and around Peterborough

Want more food and drink recommendations for Peterborough? With more than two decades in fine dining under his belt, chef Simon Brown runs the kitchen at one of Peterborough’s best restaurants, , where the seasonal New Canadian cuisine makes the most of the cornucopia available in the Kawarthas. “We are so fortunate to be surrounded by farmland and nature,” Brown says. “We are constantly inspired by fresh ingredients and adapt our menu accordingly and seasonally.” Here are five places he recommends in and around his city.

The Food Shop, Peterborough: “It’s basically a farmer’s market across from �������Ի岹����’s, so it’s super convenient to grab whatever fresh produce I need for the menu and specials, or to get a salad or sandwich for a quick bite. They sell seasonal produce, dry goods and everything in between, from local farmers/artisans. They also do baked goods and have a cool espresso machine, with a handful of seats in the front to enjoy lunch and coffee.”

, Peterborough: “Authentic Mexican, lovely atmosphere. Love the choriqueso dip and fish tacos. They also have an extensive tequila selection and make a good margarita. Great spot to go late night, with happy hour from 9 p.m. until close.”

, Douro-Dummer: “(This food truck) is 10 minutes out of town, but worth the drive! Owners John and Nik are wonderful and really do barbecue right. The best poutine around — I cannot go there and not order it. Love the brisket and blackened chicken sandwich, too.”

Fresh Dreams, Peterborough: “This is where I go for a nice night out or special occasion. The owners, Monica and Alvaro, originally from Spain, are wonderful people, doing authentic tapas. Delicious, fresh food, and a warm, inviting atmosphere, with a fantastic patio! The scallops are my go-to, always seared to perfection.”

, Peterborough: “Fantastic tacos! But I really love their condiments, specifically the habanero shallots. They’re also present at the downtown farmer’s market, where they sell some wonderful chorizo and egg pastries that we eat quite often.”